Wine tour in Vacqueyras

France is a blessed country for lovers of good wines. Driving down in the south, take a stop at Vacqueyras, the time to meet some winegrowers of the appellation.

Latest edition : 15 October 2018

In the Rhône Valley, wine appellations are legion. During a trip towards the south, stop at Vacqueyras, whose vines flourish at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail massif.

The AOC Vacqueyras has existed since 1990. The discreet village of the appellation is located in the south of the Rhône valley, about thirty kilometers from Avignon. 

In the heart of the village, the estate of the Arnoux brothers is well established and proudly displays its emblem, the old bell tower. 

This old bell tower which still watches over the small town. "My brother and I are presenting the 13th generation," explains Jean-François Arnoux, proudly showing a deed of donation. “In 1717, our ancestor Pierre Bovis received a plot of vines from the Lord of Lauris. »

Therefor their leading cuvée is simply called 1717: a magnificent blend of Grenache and Syrah picked over-ripe and aged in new barrels for 36 months. Visiting the various buildings on the estate is a bit like a treasure hunt. We discover the old hand press in operation until 97 (fortunately for the finesse of the wine it is no longer used!).

Casks from Alsace. The mysterious cellar of vintages dug with the strength of the arms by the father and the uncle of Jean-François. "It's our cellar of memories," smiles Jean-François. We store several samples there every year. »

Before going on to the tasting, we discover the aromas in order to better perceive the delicate notes of the different cuvées.

Walk around the Clos de la Cave

You don't come by chance to the well hiden Clos de la Cave, which we would like to call the Clos du philosophe, so much does its winegrower praise the earth and nature: “The earth, it is extraordinary that it allows us to produce wine! ". Henri Bungener is also a doctor in psychology.

He took over the vineyard bought in 1976 by his father in this magical site from where the view embraces the Dentelles de Montmirail, the Alpilles, the Comtat Vénaissin plain. 

In 1989, the estate was among the first in the region to go organic. “My father suffered from arthritis. A change in diet brought him healing, so he decide to change also the work in the vineyard, smiles discreetly Henri Bungener not put off by the complexity of the soil of his vineyard.
To unravel his secrets, he proceeds to a meticulous survey of the plots. “We do soil microbiology. » From one meter to another, the same grape variety can have a totally different development. “It's due to the very fine inverted and vertical strata. »

If this complicates the work of the winegrower, it is beneficial for the vine. “The roots can descend very deep and thus do not suffer from drought or warming. Only 1 row out of 4 is plowed, so as not to disturb the micro life in the soil too much.

Visiting the vineyard in the company of Henri or Damien Verriele, his equally passionate assistant, is an exciting discovery of the world of the vine. But explanatory panels also allow you to walk freely, before tasting the wines of the estate.

Stay at the farm-vineyard

Between Montmirail

and Mount Ventoux

on the communal ban of Sarrians, extends the farm-vineyard of Rose and Claude Combe. L'Oiselet is an area reminiscent of the polyculture practiced in the past by many winegrowers.
Lucien, Claude's great-grandfather, settled on these lands in 1900, when the Carpentras canal was dug to irrigate the land for market gardening. He planted orchards, olive trees, vines. Claude grew melons, tomatoes, and organized parties to bring people to the farm. “20 years ago, I was the only peasant to invite to parties…”. But the idea was quickly copied, the competition became too tough. Rose then sets up an educational farm and offers unusual accommodation. Yurts are scattered between the vines, in the scrubland.

Children are delighted to discover all kinds of poultry and rabbits, small tractors for racing.

Claude concentrates on his 20 hectares of vines and the couple has invested in their own winery. “I have been working the vine organically for 20 years. Might as well go all the way and make my own wine! I only produce red Vacqueyras,” explains Claude, who is also an inveterate inventor and handyman.
In their vast vegetable garden and orchard, the Combes cultivate old varieties of vegetables and fruits: apples, pears, figs, plums, peaches, kiwis are transformed into juice and jams by the indefatigable Rose.

Visit the cellar

Rhonéa was born from the merger of the cooperative cellars of Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise. More than 200 artisan-winemakers cultivate 2,000 hectares of vines, including 1,200 hectares in Cru Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise.

Its members do not want to be simple bringers of grapes. Hence their nickname “craftsmen-winemakers”. Most of them cultivate their vines organically or sustainably.
A “domaine & châteaux” collection allows winegrowers who wish to do so, to isolate part of their production in order to have small cuvées produced separately.
The cellar is resolutely turned towards the future and innovation. A suspended cellar facilitates work in the cellar and plot selection is done by satellite in order to perfectly determine the right time for the harvest according to maturity.

The winegrowers exchange their ideas in several workshops and the winery regularly organizes wine tourism activities.

To preserve the wine land heritage, the Rhonea vineyards project allows anyone who wishes to become co-owner of a vineyard and save the vines from urban nibbling.

INFO

Maison Arnoux et fils
Place Pousterle
84190 Vacqueyras
Tel. 04 90 65 84 18
www.arnoux-vins.com

Clos de Caveau
1 560 Chemin de Caveau
84 190 Vacqueyras
tel. 04 90 65 85 33
www.closdecaveau.com

Domaine de l'Oiselet
1 234 Route des Garrigues de l'Étang
84260 Sarrians
tel. 04 90 65 57 57
www.oiselet.com

Rhonéa Tasting shop
258 route de Vaison
84190 Vacqueyras
open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Info on www.rhonea.fr

Accommodation

Côté Dentelles is a very beautiful address in the heart of the vineyards. It is a haven of peace, in the heart of the vineyards with a view of the Dentelles de Montmirail.

The four bedrooms are spacious, equipped with a large spa bath or a Jacuzzi. The breakfast is excellent and the hostess is happy to share her good addresses. Sports hall and swimming pool (outdoor) make it possible to erase any excesses in the restaurants of the region. 

Côté Dentelles
145 Chemin du Parc
84 190 Vacqueyras
tel. 06 70 27 42 22
www.cotedentelles.com