Cotswolds, England's sweet garden

White sheep, gentle green hills, racehorses carefully covered with plaids, old bell towers like fortified towers, yellow or gray stone houses, topped with stone or thatched roofs: this is the peaceful setting of the Cotswolds.

Latest edition : 17 January 2014

This region between London and Birmingham represents England as one can imagine, with beautiful cottages, large flower gardens. By taking the small winding roads, the traveler has the impression of stepping back in time to a time when life flowed slowly. From village to village, from one garden to another, the region reveals its incredible charm. In Bibury, even the trout farm takes on the appearance of a landscaped park. The Japanese also know this English “Riquewihr” well and if the inhabitants of the village received a penny per photo, they would be rich, very rich.

A little further on, the antique shops which line the main street of Tetbury attract bargain hunters. Another illustrious "merchant" has a storefront in Tetbury: Prince Charles himself has opened a "solidarity" shop. Profits from sales of the Highgrove Shop fund the charitable foundations founded by the Prince. Every item sold has a story and the saleswomen are happy to tell it.

Snowshill, Northleach, Stow on the Wold, Broadway, Chipping Campden, every town is worth a visit. The towering churches speak of the region's rich past when sheep herders still made their fortune. The welcome in the "pubs" is cordial and English gastronomy, too long despised, surprises with its delicate flavors. Far from the hustle and bustle of London, the Cotswolds delight all those who take the trouble to explore this peaceful and flowery countryside.

A neglected old farmhouse transformed into a magical place. This is Snowshill Manor, a real enchanted mansion. It is the incredible work of Charles Wade who wanted to show the world all the wonders of the earth. Not far from the small town of Chipping Campden, the village of Snowshill (another of those picturesque towns of the Cotswolds) offers several surprises: its lavender fields (as beautiful as in Provence), and its incredible mansion.

Snowshill Manor is anything but a museum, although one is tempted to think of it as such. No, it's the mansion of an avid collector, Charles Wade (1883-1956), who spent his father's fortune buying everything from Samurai costumes and model ships to clocks, costumes, navigation instruments, old toys, incredible old pushchairs, crystal glasses ... Each room of the manor house is dedicated to another collection acquired not for its possible value but quite simply because it suited the chosen place perfectly, because it is beautiful.

It's mind-boggling and it would take long hours, probably days, to discover all the objects, beautiful or curious, amassed throughout the life of this amazing man. As for Charles Wade himself, he contented himself with living in the porter's lodge. An architect by profession, artist, craftsman and poet, he also took it into his head to transform the wasteland around the manor into "garden rooms".

He created terraces, delimited spaces by plantations and created different atmospheres by playing with plants, water ... Under a profusion of flowers, ancient stones bear philosophical inscriptions. A large vegetable garden and an orchard produce the organic vegetables and fruits served in the restaurant. Charles Wade bequeathed the estate to the “National Trust” with the obligation to open it to the public. The least spectacular room in the mansion, 'Seventh heaven', where he kept his own childhood toys and of which he said: 'The seventh heaven can only be reached in childhood, before the school and teachers succeed in destroying the greatest treasure, that of the imagination. A treasure he has never lost and which he shares with visitors to Snowshill Manor.

Stay and eat

Tetbury:

The Priory Inn, small hotel run by a French-speaking and music-loving couple, with an excellent restaurant (www.theprioryinn.co.uk)

The chef's bistro: on the ground floor, a small delicatessen; upstairs, an open kitchen with a large counter where customers are seated. Very nice and very good.

Northleach :

The Wheatsheaf Inn, old establishment with English charm with a very good restaurant (www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com)

Upper Slaugther :

Lords of the Manor, discreet luxury boutique hotel, French-speaking staff, mid-week specials (www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com)

Visit

Tetbury :

The beautiful shop Highgrove Shop

The Westonbirt Arboretum (www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt)

Highgrove :

Wonderful parks and gardens of Prince Charles

Snowshill :

The manor house dedicated to the collections with its magnificent garden

Northleach :

The small museum of mechanical music

Kelmscott :

The mansion of William Morris, one of the founders of the Arts and Crafts movement of the Victorian era.

Tea Time

Going to England and not having afternoon tea at least once is almost a sin. Very beautiful and good, in Upper Slaugther, the hotel "Lords of The Manor" offers a privileged setting for this exquisite moment.

If your budget does not tolerate spending a few days of vacation there, treat yourself to this "tea break" (€ 18) in the enchanting setting of its park. 14 kinds of teas, herbal teas, a selection of small sandwiches with smoked salmon, cucumbers and cheese, egg mayonnaise; heavy cream, small buns, cupcakes and pastries. No need to have dinner afterwards!

National Trust

The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty is a British non-profit association founded with the aim of conserving and presenting monuments and sites of collective interest. Founded in 1895, it is one of the largest such organizations in Europe and the UK's second-largest private landowner after the Crown. National Trust manages monuments, gardens, megalithic sites (Stonehenge), mansions from all eras, neighborhoods (Arlington Row in Bibury), industrial buildings, collections, and even the childhood home of Paul McCartney.

Flight

Daily easyJet flights from Basel-Mulhouse Airport to London Gatwick from € 25.95.

Informations

Info about the Cotswolds:
www.visitengland.fr

To buy train tickets, metro cards, etc. :www.visitbritain.fr/boutique