Restaurant

In Baden-Württemberg, follow the brooms!

76 pop-up inns invite you to sample regional Baden specialities. Decorated brooms lead the way. On the menu: generous snacks, homemade charcuterie, tartes flambées, cheese, wine...

Latest edition : 26 April 2020

While strolling on the other side of the Rhine, brooms decorated with multicolored ribbons intrigue. These are “Straußi”, brooms that show the way to these ephemeral inns dear to our neighbors in Markgräflerland.
The principle: winegrowers and farmers serve wines from their estates, fruit juices from their production, vegetables from their fields.

Make room in the barrels
The origin goes back to… we don't really know. The principle: the winegrowers had the right to make room in their barrels for the new harvest. It was then necessary to give a broom in the courtyard to welcome the guests. And this broom was then hung outside to indicate the opening of the inn.
The opening was limited to a few weeks, in spring and autumn. In addition to their wine, the winegrowers served products from the region.

Since then, the “Straußi”, as the ephemeral hostels are called, have changed. Faced with the success, almost all host more than the 40 guests allowed - all hostels must apply for a concession and sometimes operate as a traditional restaurant. So few are content to serve only dishes of their own production, all the “Straußi” offer products from the region.
Claus and Carmen from Lorenz Straußi in Ehrenkirchen-Kirchhofen work together with neighboring farmers. “We could obviously do everything, but growing asparagus, for example, is not the same job as catering. It's also too addictive. While we are in the fields, we cannot accommodate customers. Twenty years ago, our specialty was pumpkins. At the time, it was rare whereas today, everyone offers it. »

Today, the Lorenz Straußi offers a very varied menu. Seasonal products are obviously in the spotlight: asparagus and wild garlic in spring, pumpkin and game in autumn.
But there are also escalopes, rump steak or even snacks such as vineyard salads and a whole variety of pancakes: with wild garlic, with fresh mushrooms. The wines come from the nearby Kirchhofener Batzenberg vineyard. “We offer simple but tasty dishes, which we like to eat ourselves. To delight
the taste buds of visitors, Claus and Carmen have secured the collaboration of Joseph Djanic on the tantalizing culinary journey: Colombi in Fribourg, Merkle's Rebstock in Endingen, Baiersbronn, Salzburg, Dubai...

The transition from starred establishments to a Strausse? “Quality of life, quite simply. Less stress, less pressure. And during the weeks of closure, it happens to Joseph Djanic to provide catering on a cruise ship for example.
Or in an establishment on the other side of the world.

Although many of these more or less ephemeral inns today are more like traditional restaurants than winemakers' refreshments, their setting has not changed. They are often installed in an old barn, in an orchard... Claus and Carmen have fitted out an old stable. Great travelers and passionate collectors, they have decorated it with nearly 1000 mirrors, chandeliers... The floors of the ground come from a collegiate in Konstanz.

The hosts are seated on large tables, which encourages discussion.
To discover the Lorenz Strausse, you have to hurry: it is closed from July 2 to the end of August.

INFO

Lorenz Straußi, Krozinger Str. 13, Ehrenkirchen-Kirchhofen
Tuesday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday and public holidays from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.
No reservation.

www.lorenz-strussi.de
www.straussen-kalender.de
www.strussi.net